In the north of Pakistan lies a dream land – Skardu, the capital of Gilgit Baltistan. It is situated 8,202 ft above the sea level, right next to Ladakh and Tibetan territory, with a total population of 214,848. The local language is Balti, a Tibetan language, however, in some regions Shina is spoken too.
Skardu is an epitome of beauty, magnificence, serenity and wilderness. It is a path to some of the world’s most glorious and dangerous mountains including K2, K3 and Gasherbrum and home of Himalaya’s precious and rare creatures.
The land is abundant with gigantic mountains, snowcapped peaks, emerald green lakes, wild life, historic forts, luxurious resorts and a natural cold desert, all of which make it an attractive travel destination. I am sure after reading this travelogue, you would love to go there too.
I packed a suitcase for the holiday in the month of September, but I would suggest you travel in spring or autumn when it is the most colourful.
I traveled from Islamabad through PIA, which was a peaceful morning flight. It made my eyes witness a lot of breathtaking views, that will be a memory for life.
I landed on Skardu Airport, a tiny but beautiful, green and flowery airport surrounded by huge snowcapped mountains, where the nature is at its perfection. However, after switching on the mobile phone, I found a message from the hotel about the arrival of the shuttle. Meanwhile, I spotted the driver with my name on the card.
It was a two-hour drive from Skardu Airport to Shigar, however, given the scenic views makes the journey one of a few minutes. After two hours, I arrived at the Serena Shigar Fort, known as Fong-Khar which in the local language means the ‘Palace on the Rock’, it is one of Northern Pakistan’s most beautiful hotels. There you almost feel as if you have stepped in to a movie set because it is so picturesque. The settlement itself is also great to walk around during the day amidst the hustle and bustle or you can take a bicycle for a more relaxed afternoon to stretch the legs after your long plane journey.
However, I went to sleep early by having dinner in the river side restaurant and a little stroll in the beautiful garden as I had plans for Deosai for the morning, as a whole day would not be enough to witness the mystic Deosai National Park, home to the Himalayan Brown Bear, Himalayan Ibex, Tibetan wolf, Golden marmots, Tibetan red fox and lovely wild flowers. Also, it is called the land of fairies and djinns by the natives…maybe you would be lucky to get along with one, well I only found their illusion somehow in the locals.
The following day, I availed myself with the breakfast buffet and set for another full day adventure, starting from Satpara Lake, where I rode on a boat with many enthusiastic tourists and then relaxed myself by watching the epic landscape with a cup of tea from the nearby jungle café.
For lunch, I stopped at the spectacular Shangrila Resort with the magnificent view of the heart-shaped lake in the background of huge dark mountains. Soon, the sun would be hiding itself behind the veil of white clouds, hence, I went off to experience the world’s highest desert known as the Sarfaranga Desert or the Cold Desert that is located at the height of 7,500 feet. Luckily, my eyes experienced a breathtaking view of the sunset at the top of sand dunes with chilly winds. That day felt like it passed within moments when I was recalling it while sitting in my hotel room.
The sun was in its full bloom the next morning and everything appeared to be much brighter and colorful, which was appealing for Manthokha waterfall, that is approximately 180 feet high from the ground and located almost 80 kilometres away from downtown Skardu. This is the place from where the Indus River enters into Pakistan. The waterfall is one of the well-known tourist attractions of Kharmang valley, as you would fall in love with the clear water coming down and equally with the ambiances.
The following day, there came an awaited long journey to the divine Khaplu valley. However, for accommodation again, I preferred Serena Hotels as you can find them all over the country. My favorite proved to be the Serena Khaplu Palace in Gilgit-Baltistan, a Tibetan place, restored by the Agha Khan Foundation.
There was a local polo match taking place nearby. Polo is a popular sport in the Gilgit-Baltistan region and known popularly as the ‘Game of the Kings’. Luckily, I found the opportunity to witness it live.
After an early breakfast I was feeling more active and adventurous. Hence, I decided to have a great panoramic view at Thoqsikhar, a two-hour hike from the palace. By the time I returned it was misty dark, so I had a relaxed dinner in the palace garden lit with tiny fairy lights.
Afterwards, I considered stopping at Bara, a small town just twenty minutes from Khaplu. Here, one can find a wool spinning and weave center that trains and supports local women. This is also a great place to purchase a local Baltistani topi.
My final stop was Muchilu Bowari Rocks, they were as mighty as one can imagine. “Magnificent,” I marvelled about the Creator after witnessing the region.
