On Monday, Turkey reopened a mosque in Istanbul that was previously an ancient Orthodox church, marking a significant transformation ordered by the president four years ago. The Kariye Mosque, formerly a Byzantine church and later a museum, was converted into a Muslim place of worship by President Recep Tayyip Erdogan in 2020. This decision mirrored a similar controversial move regarding the Hagia Sophia, a UNESCO-protected cathedral in Istanbul, which had also been converted into a mosque and then a museum before reverting to a mosque again.
Erdogan’s actions were seen as part of his efforts to rally support from his more conservative and nationalist followers. However, they also sparked tensions with leaders in both the Orthodox and Catholic churches. Erdogan declared the Kariye Mosque reopened for worship during a ceremony at the presidential palace in Ankara.
Photos from the mosque showed worshippers praying on a red carpet, with one waving a Turkish flag. The mosaics on the walls of the ancient church were covered with curtains, although most of the mosaics and frescoes remained visible.
Some visitors, like Michel, a French tourist, were initially apprehensive about the changes but ultimately acknowledged the preservation efforts. Greece’s foreign affairs ministry criticized the move, calling it a “provocation” that alters the character of the former church and harms its UNESCO world heritage status.
The decision to convert the Kariye Mosque follows a similar move with the Holy Savior in Chora, another Byzantine church with cherished frescoes. This church was converted into the Kariye Mosque centuries ago and later became a museum.
The restoration efforts of the original church’s mosaics by a group of American art historians in the 1950s contributed to their public display. Similarly, Hagia Sophia, once a symbol of Eastern Christianity, underwent various transformations before Erdogan’s decision to return it to a mosque.
For some, like Michel, the Kariye Mosque holds a special significance, being better preserved, less touristy, and more intimate compared to Hagia Sophia.
