Pakistani climbers open historic new route on broad peak

Pakistani mountaineers have achieved a landmark feat by opening a brand-new climbing route on Broad Peak, one of the world’s highest mountains. The accomplishment is being hailed as a major milestone for Pakistan’s mountaineering community, showcasing the country’s growing expertise in high-altitude climbing and technical expedition planning.

Broad Peak, standing at 8,051 metres (26,414 feet), is located in the Karakoram mountain range of Gilgit-Baltistan, approximately five miles from K2. Ranked as the world’s 12th-highest mountain, Broad Peak has long attracted climbers from around the globe because of its challenging terrain and unpredictable weather conditions.

The newly established route, officially named the Mirza Ali Legacy Route, begins above Camp 3 and offers a fresh approach to the summit. The route was created after an intensive three-day effort that required climbers to navigate deep snow, steep rock faces, and mixed sections of snow and rock under extremely demanding conditions.

The expedition was led by renowned Pakistani mountaineer Mirza Ali, founder of Karakorum Expeditions. Along with his team, he spent days fixing ropes and securing the mountain to make the route accessible for future expeditions. Their summit push began at 2:00 a.m. local time on July 19. Battling continuous snowfall, freezing temperatures, and severe weather, the climbers finally reached the summit at 9:55 p.m. after more than 24 hours of nonstop climbing.

To establish the route, the team installed over 1,600 metres of fixed rope and placed permanent rock pitons at critical points to improve safety and stability. According to expedition organisers, the new line is shorter, more direct, and significantly safer than the traditional path, which passes through Broad Peak’s hazardous “V Section.” The redesigned route is expected to reduce climbers’ exposure to avalanches and falling rocks, two of the mountain’s most serious risks.

Organisers estimate that under normal weather conditions, climbers using the new route should be able to reach the summit from Camp 3 within seven to eight hours and descend in approximately two to three hours, making the ascent both faster and more efficient.

The route was unanimously named in honour of Mirza Ali to recognise his 16 years of dedication to Pakistan’s mountaineering sector. Throughout his career, he has trained aspiring climbers, organised national and international expeditions, and promoted Pakistan as a premier destination for adventure tourism.

Reflecting on the achievement, Mirza Ali said the successful opening of the route demonstrates the technical capability, determination, and resilience of Pakistani climbers. He also stressed the importance of investing in mountaineering education, safety training, and adventure tourism, highlighting Gilgit-Baltistan’s enormous untapped potential within the mountain economy.

International members of the expedition also praised the accomplishment. Argentine climber Juan Toro described the project as a historic milestone for Pakistani mountaineering, while Hungarian climber David Klein called the newly opened path an innovative and technically brilliant route that reflected the team’s exceptional skill and perseverance.

The summit team included Mirza Ali, Ahmed Baig, Rizwan Dad, Waqar Ali, Nawaz Ali Khan, Zaman Karim, Juan Toro, and David Klein. To support future expeditions and improve emergency response, the team also recorded all major anchor locations using Garmin inReach GPS technology, ensuring the new route can be safely managed for climbers in the years ahead.