At the grave of the great writer Shakespeare

Whatever the purpose of a visit to England may be, the Darvesh tends to treat it as a “study tour” or an educational journey. There is always an effort to observe the historical sites, libraries, art galleries, churches, research centres, representative institutions of the Kingdom and democracy, literary and cultural centres, as well as modern architecture, development and recreational destinations. The aim is to understand, as far as possible, the magnificent past and present of Great Britain and the wider region. Along with urban life, an exploration of rural life is also an important part of this study tour.

This is the land that once established an empire on which the sun never set. Yet the true greatness of Britain is not limited to its political power or empire. In academic, intellectual, scientific, literary and cultural terms, this land has also left a profound impact on the world. Its intellectual and literary heritage has influenced the development of thought and literature across the globe.

In this regard, my mentor, Sir Syed Ahmad Khan, has always appeared before me as a “lighthouse”. During his memorable visit to Britain, he observed, understood and recorded many things, and his experiences became a source of guidance for me and many other Indians.

During my previous visit, I was so impressed by the natural beauty of England, particularly human beauty, that the title of my first column from here was “In the Land of Beauties”. When the column was published, several friends called me and questioned why my admiration for beauty, or perhaps my obsession with it, was so strong. They suggested that I should also draw attention to the intellectual and artistic nourishment that came from Great Britain and to what the world had received from it in the fields of civilisation, science, thought and literature.

After receiving this free advice, the Darvesh titled another column “In the Cradle of Civilisation and Democracy”. At the same time, I explained why this poor Darvesh should not have been impressed by the human beauty of this land. Our great poet and philosopher Allama Iqbal had himself been so overwhelmed by the beauty and splendour of this place that he addressed the Almighty in complaint:

“Is this not strange that the infidel is given

Paradise and houris,

while the poor Muslim receives only the promise of houris?”

He went even further in his complaint:

“No one has ever seen the paradise that is Yours,

while every village of the West resembles paradise.”

During my current visit, I have also had the opportunity to observe rural and village life in Britain from close quarters. Just yesterday, accompanied by Dr Khilat-un-Nisa and dear Dr Haroon Khan, I visited Stratford-upon-Avon, the birthplace of the great British intellectual, writer, poet and playwright William Shakespeare.

Shakespeare is regarded as one of the greatest writers in the history of the world. Most of his literary and artistic life was associated with London, but his roots were firmly planted in the small and beautiful town of Stratford-upon-Avon. Visiting this place gives one the feeling that one is not merely tracing the footsteps of a globally renowned writer, but of a human being who once played in these streets, studied here, grew up, fell in love or married, and eventually became one of the greatest writers in the world before returning to the land of his birth.

Shakespeare’s birthplace has been preserved here. He was born there on April 23, 1564. Memories of his childhood, family and early life are all connected with this town. We also visited his historic schoolroom.

Alongside Shakespeare’s memorials, the home of his wife, Anne Hathaway, has also been preserved. The surrounding gardens and green spaces are equally captivating. We also had the opportunity to see apple orchards here, heavily laden with fruit. The scene offered a beautiful glimpse of rural England as it might have appeared in Shakespeare’s era.

Although Shakespeare’s final home, New Place, which he purchased after achieving success, no longer survives in its original form, the site has been preserved as a memorial and archaeological heritage site. In this way, different stages of one man’s life—his birth, childhood, education, marriage, family, success and final years—remain connected within the same town.

It was heartening to see the care with which the English have preserved the places and memories associated with Shakespeare in Stratford-upon-Avon. It demonstrates how a nation preserves the traces of its people and connects future generations with them.

However, one thing also troubled the Darvesh. Almost every historical site here operates through a ticketing system. Even seemingly ordinary places and spaces involve some form of admission charge. It sometimes feels as though the English have not only found ways to preserve their historical heritage but have also discovered countless ways to turn it into a source of income. Even visiting the final resting place of William Shakespeare, one of the greatest benefactors of the English language and literature, involves a charge. One wonders whether the government could not have borne the maintenance costs itself as a mark of respect for his literary contribution.

The most moving part of this journey was Holy Trinity Church.

It was in this church that Shakespeare was baptised on April 26, 1564, and after his death on April 23, 1616, he was buried here. The church’s historical records still preserve the entries relating to his baptism and burial.

Nearly four centuries have passed since Shakespeare’s death, yet people around the world continue to explore human nature, love, power, jealousy, crime, conscience and tragedy through Hamlet, Macbeth, Othello, King Lear and Romeo and Juliet.

Shakespeare’s grave is not a grand monument. It is a simple spot marked on the floor. A plaque relating to him stands nearby. Standing before the final resting place of one of the greatest writers in history, a person cannot help but pause for a moment. The man whose pen gave eternal life to kings, princes, generals, lovers, murderers, philosophers and ordinary human beings now rests in a simple grave.

After offering prayers at Shakespeare’s grave, the Darvesh stood before it and began to wonder: Is greatness really about living in a magnificent palace? Is it about having a grand mausoleum? Are wealth, power and fame what make a person great?

Shakespeare’s grave offers a silent answer to these questions. It is a simple grave, yet within it rests the man whose pen, four centuries later, continues to speak to people across the world.

Perhaps a person’s real life begins after his physical life ends—when his thoughts, art and words move beyond his own existence and become part of the lives of generations to come.

Standing at Shakespeare’s grave, the Darvesh felt that a human being may perish, but his work can make him immortal for centuries.

Today, I find myself wishing to visit the memorial of our own greatest hero, Sir Bertrand Russell, and to have the honour of paying my respects and offering prayers there as well.