Paris Fashion Week brings fresh faces and fierce looks

PARIS: Paris Fashion Week has opened with new names and fresh collections as the luxury fashion industry faces a challenging commercial period.

The Spring-Summer 2027 edition features 67 scheduled runway shows. Dozens of other fashion houses and emerging designers are also presenting their work through private appointments and events across the French capital.

South African luxury knitwear label MaXhosa Africa is making its debut on the official schedule. The brand was founded in 2010 by textile designer Laduma Ngxokolo, who draws inspiration from South African culture and Xhosa traditions.

Ngxokolo has previously presented his collections privately in Paris. His designs have attracted high-profile supporters, including Michelle Obama and Beyoncé.

Canadian label Matieres Fecales is also expected to draw attention with its latest collection. The relatively new brand has gained recognition for its distinctive designs and has dressed several celebrities since appearing on the fashion scene.

Major luxury houses will also take centre stage during the week. Christian Dior and Saint Laurent are scheduled to present their collections on Tuesday.

Saint Laurent designer Anthony Vaccarello could potentially be nearing the end of his tenure at the French fashion house. Reports have suggested that the Belgian designer may leave after almost a decade at the helm, although no departure has been confirmed.

Other creative leadership changes are also being discussed across the luxury sector. At Balenciaga, Pierpaolo Piccioli has reportedly come under scrutiny from parent company Kering amid challenges in maintaining the sales momentum achieved under former creative director Demna.

At Chloe, artistic director Chemena Kamali has also reportedly faced questions over profitability after taking the role in 2023.

Pascal Morand, executive president of the French Haute Couture and Fashion Federation, said the luxury industry had experienced strong growth following the Covid-19 pandemic before reaching a peak in 2023 and subsequently entering a more stable phase.

He noted that major luxury groups, established brands and younger designers are experiencing the changing market in different ways as consumer behaviour, distribution channels and business models evolve.

Despite the pressure on the sector, several brands continue to generate excitement. Chanel has been one of the notable bright spots since Matthieu Blazy became its creative director last year. His collections have attracted significant attention, with customers reportedly queuing at some boutiques.

Blazy’s Spring-Summer collection is scheduled to be presented next Monday.

Paris Fashion Week remains one of the most important events on the global fashion calendar. The city hosts some of the industry’s biggest names and also attracts a large number of international celebrities to its front rows.

The current edition brings together established luxury houses, rising designers and experimental labels as the industry adapts to changing market conditions.